Most of the Italian food with which Sydney-siders are familiar either hales from southern Italy or consists of northern dishes (such as risotto) cooked by chefs with southern heritage. It’s a long way from the sparkling Mediterranean waters of Sicily to the snow-covered Italian Alps, and the food is also, understandably, very different.

There’s a lot about northern Italian food that we have yet to learn, and Alessandro Pavoni, whose cooking is firmly rooted in the traditions of his home region of Lombardy in Italy’s north, is on a mission to rectify this. With a CV that starts at Ristorante Carlo Magno under renowned chefs Iginio Massari and Giuseppe Maffioli, and moves through Michelin-starred kitchens such as Villa Fiordaliso on Lake Garda, it’s not surprising that Pavoni came to notice when he took over the burners at harbourkitchen&bar at Park Hyatt Sydney in 2005.

Like so many young chefs however he hankered for a restaurant of his own, where he could combine the traditional cuisine of his childhood with the fabulous fresh produce he discovered in Australia and modern techniques and presentation ideas. In November 2009 the dream became a reality when he and long-time front-of-house colleague, Fraser Guthrie, opened Ormeggio at the Spit, suspended over the water at Mosman’s d’Albora Marina.

Ormeggio is Italian for ‘mooring’, and Alessandro says the Middle Harbour location reminds him of the beautiful lakes of northern Italy. The nautical setting lends itself to lots of wood, crisp white linen and large sliding windows and doors, giving an alfresco feeling even to inside tables. It also makes seafood a natural focus, alongside the game, polenta and risotto for which Lombardy is famous.

Crudo of Yellowtail Kingfish with olives, green apple, cucumber jelly, lime and Lake Como extra virgin olive oil, and tartare of venison with amaranth, pomegranate and mustard chestnuts make fine antipasti with a glass of sparkling Franciacorta as the setting sun lights up one of Sydney’s most beautiful waterways.

Alessandro is the risotto king, raising its making from an art form to a religion, so it’s hard to choose anything else as a primi, whether it’s the earthy risotto of beetroot and gorgonzola or a more delicate one with oysters, prosecco and lemon. When it comes time for secondi it’s worth eating with a group of friends in order to enjoy the specialty of Pavoni’s hometown of Brescia: Spiedo alla Bresciana (minimum of 10 people, 24 hours notice). This traditional spit-roast consists of pieces of duck, pork, and quail cooked with sage and butter for 5 hours on a slowly turning spit, and served with a coarse yellow polenta.

As the last of the colour fades from the sky and the house lights on the Seaforth shore flicker like those of Limone on Lake Garda, dip a spoon into Alessandro’s Barbajada dessert (based on a Milanese winter drink of malted chocolate, coffee and cream) with caramel gelato and almond and mint crumble, sip a good espresso and thank goodness for the fate that brought this passionate chef from Italy’s snowy Alps to Sydney’s sparkling harbour.

In August 2011 Alessandro opened Spiedo Restaurant & Bar in Westfield Sydney, where he focuses on more traditional renditions of Lombardian food.

Visit www.ormeggio.com.au and www.spiedo.com.au for more information.

Alessandro is teaching at Sydney Seafood School on 19 June, 21 July & 6 October 2012. View more details >