Matthew Moran isn’t the first name that springs to mind when you think about the local RSL or supermarket bakery, but these are his culinary roots. Like many young chefs, Moran started out on the production line and worked his way up (the local Woolworth’s bakery, a butchery in Cabramatta and Parramatta RSL to name a few) before studying at Ryde TAFE and eventually manning the burners at some of Sydney’s finest restaurants.
Before the string of awards, restaurants and television shows, there was Moran’s apprenticeship at Roseville’s La Belle Helene in 1985, which saw him working his way through cuts, burns and brunoise to eventually become sous chef and meet Peter Sullivan, with whom he opened Aria in 1999. First though, the pair ran Paddington Inn Bistro, riding the early 90’s wave for gastropubs, followed by Morans in Potts Point (named Best New Restaurant in the 1996 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide).
Moran has something of a reputation for meat. And how could he help it, coming from a grazier’s background (his family have a farm out Badgery’s Creek way)? He even ages his own beef in the basement of his restaurant. Aria’s menu runs from the likes of beetroot consommé with shreds of house-smoked duck and full-bodied duck tortellini to the super rich Kurobuta pork belly with apple puree. But that’s not to say he doesn’t have a keen understanding of seafood. His obsession with pearl meat is becoming legendary, not too many handle a bass groper as well as he does (roasted with cavalo nero, broad beans and braised artichokes), and his scampi wrapped in Tunisian brik pastry enlivened with gremolata (grated lemon zest, parsley and garlic) is not to be missed. And forget surf ‘n’ turf, surf ‘n’ surf is all the rage now, just take a look at the pan-fried fillet of Murray cod and zucchini with sautéed squid or the barramundi with seafood ravioli. Moran’s lightness of touch also runs to the sweet course. His bombe Alaska is an orb of lightly torched meringue covering pistachio ice cream; a smattering of mandarin segments cuts the sweetness.
Aria’s food marries all the warmth of bistro fare with masses of uptown style in one of Sydney’s most impressive dining rooms. Expect classic - but not stiff - décor, warm, autumnal tones, thick white linen and good, heavy silverware. Then there are the quirky touches like the touch-sensitive candle-shaped lamps. With a stunning wine list, utterly professional floor staff and one of the best views in Sydney, it remains unpretentious and comfortable with an elegance displayed by few. Moran has the rare combination of easy-going attitude and passion for perfection and quality.
Matt Moran’s first cookbook,
Matt Moran (Penguin), was released in October 2006.
Visit
www.ariarestaurant.com for more information.