WHAT’S HAPPENING AT SSS

Sharing a meal with friends is one of our favourite pastimes, now we’ve taken it a step further with our new Saturday night Quick’n’Delicious classes, combining a cooking class with a social Saturday night out. Kick off with seafood canapés and wine before whipping up three quick and delicious seafood dishes, then relax over dinner with another glass of wine. And to make it more like a dinner party - book a bench of six people for this class and only pay for five.

The cult of the celebrity chef continues to grow, and we know you want a chance to really pick their brains. We’ve also been listening to your requests for smaller classes and a range of wines with your meal. So we’ve introduced special dinner party classes hosted by leading chefs with a wine expert matching a different wine to each course. These classes have a more intimate format, with just 20 guests cooking in pairs under the chef’s guidance to prepare a three-course menu (including dessert), then sitting down at one long table with the chef and sommelier to enjoy the meal and discuss the food and wine. Damien Pignolet hosts a French dinner party on 11 May with wine by Paul Boothby of Fine Wine Partners and Alessandro Pavoni hosts an Italian dinner party on 19 June with wine by Giorgio De Maria of wine bar 121BC.

Meanwhile, I’m delighted to announce our biggest line up ever of guest chefs, a who’s who of the Australian food scene, including Ross Lusted (The Bridge Room, see chef profile); Chris Manfield (Universal, see book review); Brent Savage (Bentley Restaurant & Bar); Giovanni Pilu (Pilu at Freshwater); Justin North (Bécasse); Richard Ptacnik (Otto); Dan Hong (Ms.G’s); Dietmar Sawyere (Berowra Waters Inn); Stefano Manfredi & Gabriele Taddeucci (Osteria Balla); Stephen Hodges (Fishface); Ajoy Joshi (Nilgiri’s); Matthew Kemp (Montpellier Public House); David Thompson (nahm London & Bangkok); Warren Turnbull (Restaurant Assiette & District Dining); Matt Moran (Aria); Frank Camorra (MoVida) and Phil Wood (Rockpool).

Of course there’s also a great range of our basic seafood classes including Thai, Chilli Crab, Salt & Pepper, Moroccan, BBQ, Paella and more. And our gift certificates are the go-to Mother’s Day gift for the Mum who has everything.

Looking forward to sharing some fresh Aussie seafood with you soon,



Roberta Muir,
Manager Sydney Seafood School & FISHLine

WHAT’S HAPPENING AT SFM

The highlight of this time of the year is Easter, the second biggest time for seafood (after Christmas). SFM retailers will be extending their trading hours on Good Friday (6 April), opening from 5am to 5pm, so you’ll have plenty of time to stock up on all your seafood supplies, as well as fruit and veg, deli items, freshly baked bread, wine and spirits. Last year SFM welcomed 55,000 visitors to the site on Good Friday, with around 400 tonnes of fresh seafood being sold over the Easter period, so come along and join in the holiday spirit. And remember, seafood is healthier than chocolate, so if your new year’s resolution was to start a health kick you’ve come to the right place.

Mother’s Day (Sunday 13 May) is the other celebration on the calendar this program and you can treat Mum to a delicious seafood lunch at one of our restaurants or cafés or stock up on a feast of seafood goodies to prepare at home. If you’re looking for some inspiration, visit the FISHline pages for over 100 quick and easy seafood recipes. Stuck for gift ideas for the Mum who has everything? What about a gift certificate to a cooking class at Sydney Seafood School – it’s an especially thoughtful gift if you tell Mum that you’ll come along and attend a class with her!

As we head into the cooler months, many popular species, including prawns, oysters and tuna, are in peak supply – so now’s the time to enjoy these favourites while they’re abundant and prices are at their best. If you’d like to keep updated with our weekly specials, join us on Facebook.

We’re pleased to be introducing several new site improvements this year to make your visit to Sydney Fish Market more enjoyable. Look out for our new Customer Service Ambassadors in the car park and around the retail arcade and also new umbrellas on the boardwalk. Whether you’re lunching by the water or shopping for dinner, we’ll continue to deliver Australia’s freshest seafood alongside a great shopping experience.

 
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FEATURE SPECIES: TREVALLYS

The Trevally (Carangidae) family of fish contains over 150 species spread across 30 diverse groups. Found in the Atlantic, Indian and Pacific Oceans, they include trevallys, jacks, pompanos, jack mackerels, darts and scads.

They vary greatly in size, but most have a torpedo-shaped body with a narrow tail base and deeply-forked tail fin and are fast-swimming predators that hunt above reefs and in the open sea.

The most important commercial trevally in Australia is Yellowtail Kingfish (Seriola lalandi) named for its distinctive yellow tailfins. It’s harvested from the wild, mainly off NSW (November-March) and Queensland (April-August), with some off south-western Western Australia; but the majority is farmed in Spencer Gulf, South Australia, and usually marketed under its Japanese name ‘hiramasa’. It’s a highly-regarded, oily, pinky-white fleshed fish that’s popular raw but also lends itself to a wide variety of cooking styles.

Silver Trevally (Pseudocaranx dentex), the other commonly seen trevally, is a medium-priced fish caught off the southern half of Australia from Shark Bay (WA), to Rockhampton (Queensland) with peak supplies from November-May. The similar but smaller Skipjack Trevally (Pseudocaranx wrighti) is also marketed as silver trevally.

Yellowtail Scad (Trachurus novaezelandiae) is a tiny member of the trevally family, often only around 300g or smaller. It’s caught mainly off NSW, is low-priced and is good deep-fried, grilled or baked.

Other members of the Trevally family occasionally seen in retail shops or harvested recreationally in various parts of Australia include:

 

Darts (Trachinotus species) – five similar species are all marketed simply as Common Dart. They have distinctively large swallow-tailed tailfins and long streamlined top and bottom fins.
Jack Mackerel – two similar fish, Trachurus declivis and T.murphyi, are marketed under this name. These small fish are similar to yellowtail scad and, as the name suggests, have a long body shape similar to mackerel; their dark, dry, oily flesh isn’t generally well regarded.
Samsonfish (Seriola hippos) and the very similar Amberjack (Seriola dumerili) are both sold as Samsonfish. They are found right around the Australian coast (except Tasmania) and are popular for recreational fishing.
Queenfish (Scomberoides species) – the four members of this family look more like mackerels than other trevallys and are also popular with anglers.
Black Pomfret (Parastromateus niger) is quite distinctive among the trevallys. With it’s slightly flattened, diamond-shaped body, it resembles the unrelated pomfrets of South East Asia and is popular in Asian cooking.

Other Australian trevallys include: Bigeye (Caranx sexfasciatus), Black (C.lugubris), Bluefin (C.melampygus), Bluespotted (C.bucculentus), Giant (C.ignobilis), Diamond (Alectis indica), and Golden (Gnathanodon speciosus) Trevallys, and Turrum (Carangoides fulvoguttatus).

BUYING
Larger fish are sold whole (gilled and gutted), and in fillet form, with yellowtail kingfish also sold as steaks and cutlets; smaller fish, such as yellowtail scad, are usually only seen whole. In whole fish look for lustrous skin, firm flesh, and a pleasant, fresh sea smell. In cutlets, steaks and fillets, look for pinky-white, firm, lustrous, moist flesh without any brown markings or oozing water and with a pleasant fresh sea smell.

STORING
Make sure whole fish is scaled, gilled, gutted and cleaned thoroughly. Lay whole fish, fillets, steaks and cutlets in a single layer on a plate and cover with plastic wrap or place in an airtight container. Trevally is best eaten as fresh as possible, but can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months, below -18ºC. Its distinctive fishy flavour intensifies with time.

COOKING & SERVING
Trevallys are suitable for a wide range of cooking methods: deep-frying, pan-frying, baking, grilling, barbecuing, smoking, and pickling. They tend to be dry so marinating prior to cooking helps prevent the flesh drying out, as does wrapping in foil, banana leaves or vine leaves if baking or barbecuing. Most have oily, dry, medium-textured flesh with few bones that are easily removed. The skin is usually removed and many have a dark bloodline down the centre of fillets which can also be cut out. Strong Mediterranean or Asian flavours work well with the distinctive, slightly fishy flavour, which is more pronounced in the darker fleshed species such as jack mackerel.

YOU SAY TREVALLY, I SAY TREVALLA
Despite their similar sounding names, Trevallys are unrelated to Trevallas (Centrolophidae family) such as blue-eye trevalla and warehous.

Ocean Jacket

Silver Trevally.
Photo by Don Tuma.

Ocean Jacket

Yellowtail Kingfish.
Photo by Don Tuma.
 
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RECIPE: TERIYAKI SILVER TREVALLY FILLETS WITH SESAME & ZUCCHINI

Good commercial teriyaki sauces are available, or make your own by combining equal quantities of light soy sauce and mirin. The name comes from the Japanese words ‘teri’ (shine) and ‘yaki’ (grill), as meat and fish are brushed with the marinade while being grilled to give a shiny coating.

Serves 4

¼ cup teriyaki sauce
2cm piece ginger, finely grated
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1½ teaspoons white sugar
1½ teaspoons sesame oil
2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted (see notes)
4 x 180g silver trevally fillets, skin off, bones removed
3 zucchini
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 green onions, thinly sliced diagonally
Steamed rice, to serve

Combine teriyaki sauce, ginger, garlic, sugar, sesame oil and sesame seeds in a bowl. Add the fish, cover and marinate for 10-20 minutes.

Trim the ends off the zucchini and quarter lengthways. Heat a non-stick frying pan over a high heat and add the oil. Add the zucchini and cook for about 2 minutes, until it begins to colour. Remove to a warm plate.

Remove fillets from marinade, reserving marinade.

Return the pan to the heat, add the trevally fillets and cook for 1-2 minutes, until the edges have turned opaque. Turn the fillets, add the zucchini and the reserved marinade and cook for a further 1-2 minutes, adding a few teaspoons of water if the marinade begins to caramelise.

Arrange the zucchini on plates, top with fillets and garnish with green onion. Serve with steamed rice.

Notes: Toast sesame seeds in a dry frying pan for a couple of minutes, tossing gently to prevent them burning, or under a grill (but watch them closely).

Wine suggestion: This dish is made for a dry but fragrant rosé like Logan Wine’s Hannah Rosé 2010. Its lifted aromas of red berries and orange work a treat. www.loganwines.com.au

Photo by Franz Scheurer.
 
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RECIPE: SEARED CHERMOULA YELLOWTAIL KINGFISH WITH MOROCCAN SALAD

Chermoula is a spicy North African marinade that marries well with oily fish. It contains lemon juice, which starts to ‘cook’ the fish if left on for too long. Sear the fish for more or less time depending on how rare you like it.

Serves 4 as an entrée

1 x 400g piece sashimi-grade yellowtail kingfish, trimmed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Instant couscous, to serve
 
Chermoula
1 bunch coriander
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
6 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
Salt flakes, to taste
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
100ml lemon juice
250ml extra virgin olive oil
 
Moroccan Salad
1 preserved lemon, rinsed, skin only finely sliced
15 green olives, pitted, coarsely chopped
½ cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
½ red onion, finely chopped
1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Make the Chermoula: finely chop coriander and parsley leaves together in a food processor. Add remaining ingredients and mix well.

Place fish on a large piece of plastic wrap and coat well with Chermoula, roll over and coat underside. Wrap tightly in the plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 45 minutes, then remove from fridge and set aside in a cool place for a further 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, make Moroccan Salad: combine all ingredients, cover and set aside.

Heat a frying pan. Wipe excess Chermoula off fish. Add olive oil to pan and sear fish all over for a minute or so each side until well coloured. Remove pan from heat, cover and leave to rest for a few minutes.

Cut into thick slices and serve with couscous and Moroccan Salad.

Wine suggestion: The fruit forward spiciness of Knappstein’s Three 2010 (a blend of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris) complements this spicy dish perfectly. www.knappstein.com.au

Photo by Franz Scheurer.

 
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GO INTO A DRAW TO WIN A 4-RACK BRADLEY ORIGINAL SMOKER AND 3 SIDES OF REGAL KING SALMON WHEN YOU MAKE AN ONLINE BOOKING.

Booking online is quick, convenient and secure – and you can do it from any computer at any time, whenever it’s convenient for you. It saves us time and resources too as your booking goes straight into our computer.

So, to say thank you, every time you book online before 1 July 2012 you’ll go into a draw to win a 4-rack Bradley Original Smoker with accessories, briquettes and 3 sides of Regal King Salmon, valued at $1060.

Many of our favourite chefs, including Alessandro Pavoni, Giovanni Pilu and Matthew Kemp, use Bradley Smokers to prepare hot and cold smoked dishes for their menus. Now you have the chance to create your own hot- or cold-smoked treats, from hot-smoked oysters and mussels to traditional cold-smoked salmon or even a smoky seafood BBQ (not to mention meat, poultry, sausages, cheese, chillies and more), with a 4-rack Bradley Original Smoker. Temperature, time, and smoke are all controllable for roasting, smoking and barbecuing. Learn more at www.bradleysmoker.com.au

So visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and book now.

Terms and Conditions: 1. Sydney Seafood School Online Booking Promotion entry is open to all Sydney Seafood School customers. 2. To participate in this promotion book online between midnight on 28 February 2012 and midnight on 30 June 2012. 3. There is no entry fee involved in participating in this competition, but all participants must be 15 years of age or older. 4. To be eligible to win a Bradley Original Smoker with accessories and 3 sides of salmon, valued at $1060, entrants must book a Sydney Seafood School cooking class online by midnight on Thursday 30 June 2012. 5. Prize will be drawn at Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009 at 11am 1 July 2012. The winner will be notified by email on the same day. 6. Promoter is Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009. Phn +61 2 9004 1100. ABN 24 064 254 306. 7. You must ensure that all care is taken when making the booking. A booking is not deemed to have been received unless an email confirming the booking has been sent to the customer. 8. Sydney Fish Market accepts no responsibility for any booking not received by Sydney Fish Market or delays in the delivery of bookings due to technical disruptions or for any reason. All online bookings are deemed to be received at the time of receipt NOT time of transmission by the entrant. 9. Sydney Fish Market reserves the right to keep all entry emails confidential. 10. Employees of Sydney Fish Market and their families are not eligible to enter. 11. The prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash. Authorised under NSW Permit No LTPS/11/02178.

Regal King Salmon are also offering FISHline News readers a free packet of Smoked King Salmon (RRP $12) when they buy 1kg of fresh Regal King Salmon. Simply download your voucher from www.regalsalmon.co.nz and present it at Peter’s Fish Market in Sydney Fish Market’s waterfront arcade.



 

 
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FAQ: ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Check the FAQ pages in the FISHline section of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and if you can’t find the answer there, email your question to fishline@sydneyfishmarket.com.au.

What is whitebait?
Whitebait is the name given to tiny immature fish of various species, depending on the country. They’re generally 4-5cm long, translucent, so small that there are thousands per kilo, and eaten whole. Australian whitebait are either young native trouts (members of the Galaxiidae family), or adults of an unrelated species called Tasmanian whitebait; but there’s no commercial whitebait fishery in Australia. Frozen whitebait is imported into Australia from New Zealand and Asia. New Zealand whitebait is the young of native trout caught in the lower reaches of rivers during a short, strictly controlled, season. Most however is farmed in Asia. Whitebait is most commonly served as fritters and sometimes appears on menus under its Italian name nanatta or neonata (meaning 'new born').

A larger, thicker fish, sandy sprat, around 5-6cm long, is also sometimes incorrectly sold as whitebait in Australia.

How do I make fish stock?
Fish stock is quick, easy and inexpensive to make. It’s a great standby to have in the freezer as a base for soups and sauces and fish bones are cheap, or sometimes free if you have a regular fishmonger. Bones from white-fleshed, non-oily fish are ideal, as dark-fleshed or oily fish will give the stock a stronger flavour. Wash heads and bones well to remove any trace of blood, which would give the stock a bitter flavour, then place them in a large saucepan or stockpot, cover with water, add a few bay leaves, peppercorns, onion and lemon and simmer for 20 minutes. See recipe on FISHline pages at www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au.

What’s seafood extender?
Surimi (meaning ‘ground meat’ in Japanese) is the technical name for seafood extender. It’s made from inexpensive fish (typically pollock or hake) pounded into a thick paste then shaped and cooked. It’s been popular in Asia for hundreds of years, where its used to make products such as fish balls, a key ingredient in dishes like Laksa. It comes in various shapes and textures, is often coloured to resemble lobster or crab meat and is sometimes referred to as crab stick, though it can’t be labelled as such if it doesn’t contain any crab. In Australia it’s often used in inexpensive salads and sushi.

Fish stock ingredients.
Photo by Franz Scheurer.
 
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CLASSIC DISH: ESCABECHE

Escabeche is a traditional Spanish and Portuguese sauce, a hot vinegar and wine marinade, used to cover fried seafood and poultry (traditionally partridge) which is then generally served cold.

Variations are popular all around the Mediterranean, from Italian scapece to Algerian scabetch, as well as migrating to South America and the Philippines with the Spanish and Portuguese. References to escabeche date back to at least the 1500s and, although vinegar sauces were popular in Romans times, the Arabs are generally credited with introducing it to Spain. The word most likely derives from the Persian al-sikbaj, the name of a sweet-sour meat dish made with vinegar and honey or date molasses.

The technique originated as a method of preserving food and so early versions would have been much more acidic than the ones served today. Modern escabeche is predominantly sour, but earlier versions would have had sweetness added to balance out the strong vinegar, giving a sweet-sour flavour. The Italians call this agro-dolce and Italian scapece, and related dishes such as Venetian sardines en soar, often remain closer to this older flavour profile, including sugar, raisins and pine nuts. Especially in the south, a little chilli is also popular. While the Portuguese variety sometimes contains tomatoes, the Spaniards often add a pinch of saffron. What is essential is olive oil, vinegar, onions, bay leaves, thyme and black pepper – the rest is up to you.

LEARN SOME OTHER GREAT SPANISH DISHES at our Spanish classes on 14 March, and 1 and 2 May. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.


Australian Salmon.
Photo by Don Tuma.

 
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RECIPE: ESCABECHE OF AUSTRALIAN SALMON

Escabeche is great made with any oily fish; sardines, mackerel, mullet, Australian herring, bonito and tuna are all delicious prepared this way – as are mussels. Here we use Australian salmon, a wild-caught white-fleshed fish unrelated to the farmed pink-fleshed Atlantic and Pacific salmons. Escabeche can be eaten at room temperature as soon as the marinade has cooled, but is best refrigerated until cold. It can be kept covered in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Serves 4 as an entrée

400g Australian salmon fillets, skin-off
Plain flour, for dusting
Salt flakes & freshly ground black pepper, to taste
150ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 red onion, finely sliced
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
½ cup sherry vinegar
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup water
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Crusty bread, for serving

Cut central bloodline and any bones out of fillets, and slice fish into large bite-sized pieces.

Add salt and pepper to flour and dust fish well in seasoned flour, shaking off excess.

Heat a frying pan, add 50ml of the oil and, when hot, add fish and cook for a couple of minutes each side, until well coloured and cooked through. Remove and drain on paper towel.

Heat remaining oil in a frying pan, add onion and 1 teaspoon of salt and cook for a few minutes, until translucent.

Add garlic, bay and thyme, and cook for about 5 minutes until onion is soft but not coloured.
Add vinegar, wine, water and peppercorns and bring to the boil, simmer for 20 minutes, covered. Remove from heat and stir in half the parsley.

Place a layer of fish in a non-reactive dish, pour over some of the marinade, add another layer of fish and more marinade and continue until all fish and marinade are used. Cover and refrigerate until cold.

Remove fish from the marinade and arrange on a plate with the onions. Spoon some of the marinade over the top, add a drizzle of olive oil, sprinkle with remaining parsley and serve with plenty of crusty bread.

Wine suggestion: This dish needs a substantial white wine and the big Margaret River flavours of McHenry Hohnen’s Vintner’s 3 Amigos, a blend of Marsanne, Chardonnay and Rousanne, work a treat. www.mchv.com.au


Photo by Franz Scheurer.
 
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CHEF PROFILE: ROSS LUSTED FROM THE BRIDGE ROOM

Those who’ve been eating in Sydney for more than 10 years will remember Ross Lusted as the best chef we ever lost … and will be excitedly celebrating his return.

Ross first came to notice as executive chef of Rockpool from 1995 – 1998 when it was Australia’s leading temple of Mod Oz cuisine. He was lured to Park Hyatt Sydney (where he met his future wife, Sunny) to convert the old Number 7 into the beautiful harbourkitchen&bar. In 2000 Ross and Sunny headed to Asia, the beginning of a jet-setting life managing and opening Aman resorts around the world including Bali, Montenegro, Sri Lanka and North America. But they kept firm ties to home, always with an eye to eventually settling back here. Ross explains: “Sunny and I travelled back to Sydney at least once a year during our decade away, and on each visit I would drive past a beautiful heritage-listed, art deco building on the corner of Bridge and Young Streets and dream of having a restaurant there.”

In May last year, they took over the Bridge Street site, opening The Bridge Room in late August 2011. This long narrow oasis on a busy city corner has large windows bringing in plenty of light, with cream walls and shades of grey and brown creating a calm, relaxing atmosphere. Unclad tables are set with smart grey felt placemats complimented by custom-made ceramics designed by Ross.

While the kitchen isn’t open in the modern sense, Ross can be seen grinning at the open pass where he roasts meat and fish on a Japanese robata grill to send out dishes such as yellowtail kingfish in a Nonya sauce, bright with the flavours of lemongrass, kaffir lime and Thai basil and topped with puffed rice for textural crunch. Prawns seem such a safe mainstay on most restaurant menus – but in Ross’ hands they’re anything but predictable. Split, grilled over charcoal and served simply with mandarin peel butter and a scattering of soft herbs they’re a revelation; more basic still is a lunchtime special of sweet little banana prawns cooked in a cast iron frying pan with butter and picada (a Spanish sauce of deep-fried herbs, pine nuts, hazelnuts and garlic) topped with deep-fried basil leaves. The excellent Sonoma sourdough comes in very handy here for mopping up the delicious sauce.

While the menu offers a generous array of seafood, there’s plenty to delight carnivores as well, with a dish of raw wagyu shoulder, smoked enoki mushrooms, horseradish and soft pickled chilli already heading towards ‘signature dish’ status. It’s hard to find a chef today who doesn’t describe his food as ‘produce driven’, but Ross is blessed with the Fink family (owners of Quay and Otto) as partners, and so shares in the produce grown on small Blue Mountains’ farms specifically for these restaurants. When they’re available he loves to serve a dessert of frais du bois (tiny, full-of-flavour, wild strawberries). But he only gets about 6 punnets a week, delivered by the farmer himself – and when they’re finished they’re off the menu for another week.

Ross is happy to be back home in Sydney rattling the pans in his own restaurant – and those who remember his cooking, along with a whole new generation who are discovering it for the first time, say ‘Welcome Home!’

44 Bridge St, Sydney, 9247 7000
Lunch 12-3pm Tue- Fri; Dinner 6-10pm Tue-Sat
www.thebridgeroom.com.au

See Ross at Sydney Seafood School on 12 March. www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.


Ross Lusted.

 

 

 

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CHEF’S RECIPE: TEO CHEW-STYLE SOUTHERN CALAMARI

Serves 4

4 southern calamari, cleaned
1 large piece pickled mustard greens, soaked overnight in water
8 shiitake, blanched, finely sliced
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, finely sliced
1 knob young ginger, julienned
1 long red chilli, julienned
1 salted plum, washed, finely sliced
10g rock sugar, crushed
8 slices silken tofu
20ml rice wine
50ml light soy sauce
Chinese parsley, to serve
Picked bean sprouts, to serve
Finely sliced green onions, to serve
Steamed jasmine rice, to serve

Slice the calamari tube into 5mm thick rings and halve the tentacles.

Slice the larger stems of the mustard greens finely.

Combine stems and leaves of mustard greens, shiitake, tomato, ginger, chilli, salted plum and rock sugar.

Place calamari and tofu on a plate, top with the vegetable mixture and sprinkle over the rice wine. Cover and refrigerate for about 30 minutes to marinate.

Place in a steamer basket over a wok of boiling water and cook for about 4 minutes, until the calamari is just opaque.

Remove from the steamer, sprinkle over the soy sauce, add Chinese parsley, bean sprouts and green onions and serve with steamed rice.

Wine suggestion: The dark flavours of this dish need a wine that cuts through without overwhelming. Thorne-Clarke’s 2010 Sandpiper Pinot Gris from the Barossa Valley does exactly that. www.thornclarkewines.com


The Bridge Room interior.

 

 
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COOKING STYLE: POTTING

A variation on French rillettes, terrines, pâté and confit, potting is an old English technique for preserving meat or seafood by storing it under a layer of fat.

The food was traditionally cooked thoroughly to eliminate excess moisture, then packed into a ceramic pot. Meats with a lot of natural fat could be sealed under a layer of their own fat, while seafood was generally covered with a layer of clarified butter.

Food historian Alan Davidson explains that potting derived from medieval raised pies, the crusts of which were made from coarse flour and weren’t meant to be eaten but provided an airtight container in which to store and transport food. Food baked in a thick crust was sterile and so lasted quite a long time. The point where it started to decay however, was the top where the filling shrank away from the pastry lid as it cooked, allowing it to come into contact with air via the holes cut to allow steam to escape. This problem was overcome by pouring melted butter into the holes after the pie was cooked, thus sealing the top. It was a short step from this to doing away with the pie crust and packing a filling inside a reusable ceramic crock sealed with clarified butter.

Food was sometimes pounded into a paste with the fat or butter then potted, other times it was cut into chunks or, in the case of small prawns, peeled but left whole. Modern storage and preservation methods did away with the need for potting, but certain variations, such as potted prawns and some fish pastes have survived because people enjoy their flavour.

Oily fish are generally poached or pan-fried then made into a paste with butter and potted. Try anchovies, mackerel, mullet, sardines or salmon.
Shellfish, such as prawns and crabmeat, are better left with some texture and cooked in butter.
Potted foods make great spreads or dips and are perfect picnic food as they’re easy to transport.
Potting isn’t recommended as a preserving method today, so don’t store potted food for any longer than you would normally store meat or fish.

dan hong

Boiled prawns were traditionally often preserved by being potted.

 
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RECIPE: POTTED PRAWNS

Most traditional recipes use boiled prawns. However, frying them in the spiced butter until they’re just cooked through gives a much tastier result, as does cooking the shells in the clarified butter; but you could use boiled prawns if you like and seal the pots with plain clarified butter. Remove the ramekins from the fridge 15-20 minutes before serving so the butter softens a little.

Serves 6 as an entrée

375g salted butter
1kg green prawns, peeled, deveined, heads and shells reserved
½ teaspoon ground mace
½ teaspoon grated nutmeg
Pinch cayenne pepper
Salt flakes, to taste
Juice and zest of ½ lemon
Brown bread, toasted, for serving

Melt 250g of the butter over a low heat until the solids sink to the bottom, drain off the clear fat from the top discarding the solids that are left behind.

Return butter to the saucepan, add prawn heads and shells and cook over a low heat for about 5 minutes, until orange, crushing the shells with a wooden spoon or potato masher to extract as much flavour as possible. Strain off butter and discard solids.

Roughly chop prawn meat.

Place remaining butter in a frying pan with mace, nutmeg and cayenne and melt over a low heat.

When it starts to froth, increase heat to medium-high, add prawn meat and stir for a minute or 2 until just cooked.

Remove from heat and stir in salt, lemon juice and zest.

Pack prawns, with the cooking butter, tightly into 6 x 150ml ramekins.

Smooth the top and spoon prawn-flavoured butter over to seal. Refrigerate for at least a few hours, preferably overnight.

Serve with brown toast triangles.

Wine Suggestion: This rich buttery dish is complemented perfectly by Turkey Flat Rosé 2011 with its raspberry and cherry aromas, rich, textured palate and lovely finish balanced by just enough acid. www.turkeyflat.com.au

dan hong

Photo by Franz Scheurer.


 
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BOOK REVIEW

TASTING INDIA
by Christine Manfield

I’ve just been on a culinary tour of India with Christine Manfield – we started with the Bengali cuisine of Kolkata (Calcutta) in the northwest before climbing high up into the Himalayas to taste the cooking of Tibetan Buddhists. Next came Mughlai cuisine around Delhi, then east to the desert state of Rajasthan before travelling south to try the rich, spicy food of Tamil Nadu. On the southwest coast we explored the backwaters of Kerala before heading up the coast to the Portuguese-influenced pocket of Goa, finishing in the port city of Mumbai (Bombay). Chris, who’s been exploring India for over 20 years, leads regular culinary tours around this country she describes as “a visual feast and gastronomic paradise”. This tour however was taken from the comfort of my deck chair, immersed in recipes Chris has gathered from home cooks and chefs all over India and brought alive by Anson Smart’s vibrant, full-page photographs of people, scenery, food and architecture.

Divided into ten chapters, each focusing on a different area, Tasting India is at once travel guide, cookbook and story book, exploring India’s natural and manmade landscape as well as the traditions and cooking of its various religious and cultural groups. This rich melting pot of people, plus India’s position at the epicentre of the world’s spice trade, makes for a deliciously diverse cuisine. With two long coastlines there’s plenty of seafood on offer, but the cultural mix also ensures there’s something for everyone: whether you fancy vegetarian masala dosai from Tamil Nadu, spiced prawn and kokum curry from Cochin, Goan pork kebabs or Tibetan-style chicken dumplings, you’ll find it in the pages of this inspiring book.

RRP $89.95 (Lantern/Penguin)
ISBN 9781920989927

Chris will present some of her favourite seafood recipes from her new book on 17 March.
Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.


 

 
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RECIPE: KERALA FRIED FISH

Serves 4

4 plate-sized leatherjacket trunks, gutted, skinned
1 tablespoon lime juice
2 teaspoons salt flakes
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon chilli powder
1 tablespoon shredded curry leaves
2 teaspoons ginger-garlic paste (see notes)
2 tablespoons coconut or vegetable oil
Lime wedges, for serving
Steamed basmati rice, for serving

Score the fish with 2-3 slashes through to the bone on both sides.

Combine lime juice with 1 teaspoon of the salt and use to marinate the fish for 30 minutes.

Combine turmeric, chilli powder, remaining salt, curry leaves and ginger-garlic paste with just enough water to make a thick paste.

Rub the paste liberally over the fish and into the slashes.

Heat oil in a frying pan and cook the fish for about 3 minutes on one side, until flesh is opaque through to the bone, then turn over and fry the other side for another couple of minutes.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fish to a serving plate.

Serve with lime wedges and steamed rice.

Notes: To make ginger-garlic paste, blend 5 garlic cloves with a 5cm piece of ginger roughly chopped and a little water, to form a smooth paste.

Recipe from Tasting India by Christine Manfield. Photography by Anson Smart.

Wine Suggestion: This exotic dish deserves something a little different. Zonte’s Footstep 2011 The Love Symbol Savagnin, with its crisp, aromatic citrus and stone fruit flavours, stands up well to the spice and oil in this delicious dish. www.zontesfootstep.com.au


Photo by Anson Smart.
 
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