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SYDNEY SEAFOOD SCHOOL |
JULY - OCTOBER 2010 |
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Sydney Seafood School has a feast of hot classes scheduled to warm up the colder months ahead, starting with bistro classics from Damien Pignolet (Bistro Moncur) and Jason Roberts (The Bellevue Hotel) on 10 July. The French theme continues, just in time for Bastille Day, with Justin North (Bécasse) and his head chef from Etch, James Metcalfe, on 12 July; Guillaume Brahimi (Guillaume at Bennelong) on 24 July; and Matthew Kemp (Restaurant Balzac) on 26 July.
If Asian, Mod Oz or Italian's more your taste, there are also classes with Mark Jensen (Red Lantern), Gourmet Farmer Matthew Evans, Christine Manfield (Universal), Dan Hong (Lotus), Lucio Galletto (Lucio's), Giovanni Pilu (Pilu at Freshwater), Mark Best (Marque), and Dietmar Sawyere (Berowra Waters Inn & Ad Lib Bistro, see guest chef profile - click here). Kathy Snowball also presents another of her seasonal dinner party menus (with dessert, something quite rare at the Seafood School), and Lyndey Milan's next food and wine workshop shows that food cooked with spice needn't be 'spicy' and can match brilliantly with a range of food-friendly wines.
Seafood BBQ is still our most popular class though and this program we're giving away a BeefEater 4-burner Discovery plus BBQ valued at $1099 (click here). All you have to do to enter the draw is use our online booking system - it's quick, convenient and secure and means you can book from any computer at any time of the day or night, whenever it's convenient for you. Every online booking made before
1 November will go into the draw to win this great prize.
With Father's Day coming up, remember that a Seafood School gift certificate makes a great gift. They're available for any amount and valid for 12-months ... and if you plan to attend a class with Dad you're giving him a gift that money can't buy: a shared experience. You can even purchase a gift certificate online (click here) and print it out from your home printer - perfect for last minute shopping!
Several of the recipes in this issue of FISHline News have been developed in response to reader requests, such as the whole poached salmon (click here) and the ceviche (click here). So if there's a seafood recipe you're keen to try, have a look on the recipe pages of the FISHline section of our website www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and if it's not there, let us know and we'll do our best to include it in a future newsletter.
Happy cooking, we hope to see you at a Seafood School class soon.

Roberta Muir
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Visit the FISHline pages on Sydney Fish Market's website, www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au for tips on purchasing, storing and cooking seafood, as well as step-by-step preparation diagrams, nutritional information and information on many popular species.
If our Salmon species feature (click here) whets your appetite, go to www.regalsalmon.co.nz the home of New Zealand's King Salmon, for more delicious recipes and info on how this fish is farmed.
Learn more about the Australian seafood industry, and the fishermen who put the world’s best seafood on our tables, at Aussie Seafood www.aussieseafood.com.au – with lots of great recipes and information on lesser-known species.
Multicultural Sydney-siders think nothing of eating Italian, Vietnamese and Argentinean food all in the same week. If you need a little help translating some of those delicious foreign dishes, What Am I Eating www.whatamieating.com is the website for you, with over 63,200 terms in 302 languages.
Franz Scheurer from Australian Gourmet
Pages www.australiangourmetpages.com provides wine suggestions for all the recipes in
this newsletter. The AGP website includes restaurant, food, wine and spirit reviews and articles, and you can subscribe to the FREE
e-newsletter from the homepage.
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FEATURE SPECIES: SALMON & TROUT
These natives of the northern hemisphere, introduced to Australia for sports fishing in the 19th century, have become significant aquaculture species and among the most popular fish in restaurants and home kitchens.
The Salmonidae family, to which they belong, is a very unusual one, often able to live in both fresh and salt water; while some (usually called Trout) live in rivers and lakes, many (usually called Salmon) spend much of their lives at sea, returning to freshwater to spawn. All are predators, feeding on small crustaceans that contain pigments which turn their shells red when cooked, ingesting these pigments gives the Salmon's flesh its pink-orange colour (replicated in farmed fish by mixing pigments into the feed). The three main commercial types of Salmonidae: Atlantic Salmon and Trout, Pacific Salmon and Trout, and Charr/Char, have been introduced to Australia.
Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar) is native to European and North American rivers draining into the north Atlantic. Australian aquaculture began in the mid-1980s and Tasmania now produces around 32,000 tonnes/year. Available year round, they're usually harvested at 3-6kg. Farmed in saltwater they have silvery grey skin, while those from fresh or brackish water are golden to olive-brown.
Chinook Salmon (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha), a native of the northern Pacific Ocean, were introduced to Australia in the 1870s, though wild stocks are now limited to a couple of Victorian lakes. They were introduced to New Zealand in the early 1900s and have been farmed in sea cages there since the 1980s. New Zealand is now the world's major supplier of this species, marketing it as King Salmon. Harvested year round at about 5kg, they look similar to Atlantic Salmon, with slightly paler skin and darker flesh, plus a higher oil content and slightly softer texture.
Rainbow Trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) is a sea-going native of streams, rivers and lakes draining into the northern Pacific Ocean. Introduced to Australia in the 1890s, it's the main Trout commercially farmed here. Raised in freshwater it's typically sold as a plate-sized fish (0.5-1kg) and is popular smoked, but when grown out in sea cages it reaches a similar size to Atlantic Salmon and is marketed as Ocean Trout. At this size, the flesh is very similar to that of Atlantic Salmon, though with a deeper colour. It has a distinctive pink-orange patch on the gill cover, which becomes a broad stripe along the middle of the sides. Farmed fish is available year round, while wild stocks, found in cool streams in NSW, Victoria, Tasmania, SA and south-western WA, are only caught recreationally.
Brown Trout (Salmo trutta), sea-going natives of streams, rivers and lakes draining into the northern Atlantic Ocean and closely-related to Atlantic Salmon, were introduced to Australia in the 1860s. They are rarely farmed, but are caught recreationally.
Brook Trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) are actually a Charr, distinguished from Salmon and Trout by their brighter colouring and distinctive white edges on their lower fins. Native to the Atlantic coast of North America, they were introduced to Tasmania in the early 1900s and are also found in a few lakes and streams in NSW and SA. Since 2005 they've been farmed in sea cages in south-western Tasmania and marketed as Saltwater Charr. Only available from November-February, they have the reddest flesh of all Australian-farmed Salmonids.
BUYING
Saltwater-reared fish are sold whole, in cutlet, steak and fillet forms, fresh, smoked and cured as gravlax; their bright orange roe is also widely available. In whole fish look for lustrous skin with a slippery, mucilaginous coating, firm flesh, and a pleasant, fresh smell. In cutlets, steaks and fillets, look for pink to orange, firm, lustrous, moist flesh without any brown markings or oozing water and with a pleasant fresh smell; always buy sashimi-grade fish if it is to be served raw or rare. Freshwater-reared Rainbow Trout are mainly sold whole, fresh or smoked.
STORING
Ensure whole fish is gilled, gutted and cleaned thoroughly. Lay in a single layer on a plate and cover with plastic wrap or place in an airtight container. Refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months below -18ºC. Fish that has been smoked or made into gravlax has only been lightly cured to enhance flavour, not strongly enough to act as a preservative, and so should not be treated as a preserved food. Sashimi-grade fish should be either eaten within 24 hours of purchase or cooked.
COOKING
Salmon and Trout are versatile; they can be served hot or cold, steamed, poached, pan-fried, stir-fried, baked, braised, grilled, barbecued, smoked, cured or raw (sashimi). Saltwater-reared fish have a richer flavour than smaller, freshwater-reared Trout. An attractive fish cooked whole, the flesh has good gelling characteristics and works well in mousseline, fish cakes, patés, terrines or rillettes. The firm flesh of larger fish holds together well in curries and casseroles and can be cubed for kebabs. It's best served at least slightly rare or it can be dry, and is often served with creamy or buttery sauces to counter this tendency.
*Australian Salmon (Arripis trutta) is not a member of the Salmonidae family, nor are Coral Trouts (which are really Rockcods).
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Chinook (King) Salmon.
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Rainbow Trout (Ocean Trout).
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Brook Trout (Saltwater Charr).
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Atlantic Salmon in fish kettle.
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RECIPE: WHOLE POACHED SALMON WITH CUCUMBER SALAD
Traditionally Salmon is poached in court bouillon, but English food writer, Jane Grigson, recommends strong brine for an even tastier result, while allowing the fish to cool in the poaching liquid helps keep it moist.
Serves 4
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1 x 2.5-3kg Atlantic Salmon, gilled and gutted |
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525g coarse salt |
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6 litres water |
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Cucumber Salad with Caper & Dill Mayonnaise |
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250ml whole-egg mayonnaise |
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½ cup finely chopped dill |
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½ cup baby capers, rinsed and dried |
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6 Lebanese cucumbers, seeded, cut into half moons |
Dissolve salt in water and set aside.
Rinse fish, especially the cavity to remove any blood, wipe with a clean cloth to remove as much of the slime as possible. Place fish on the rack in a fish kettle, cover with salt water and place lid on top. Place kettle over 2 burners on a medium heat and bring to the boil (this should take about 20 minutes). As soon as the water begins to bubble, turn off heat, remove the lid and leave fish to cool completely in poaching liquid (1½-2 hours).
Meanwhile make Cucumber Salad: combine mayonnaise, dill and capers; stir half of this mixture through cucumbers and set remainder aside.
When cool, remove fish from poaching liquid, place on a serving platter and carefully remove skin, fins and fin bones, then gently scrape off any dark flesh from just below the skin. Carefully turn over and repeat on other side, leaving head and tail intact.
Spoon Cucumber Salad around fish and serve remaining mayonnaise on the side.
Notes: It takes a bit of confidence to handle the whole cooked fish; if you feel hesitant about turning it over, just peel back the skin from one side for presentation.
Wine suggestion: Turkey Flat has been making great rosé for sometime, but their 2009 is a little drier than previous vintages. A blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, it has complexity and substance and is a great match with this rich, classic dish. www.turkeyflat.com.au
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| Photo by Franz Scheurer |
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RECIPE: SMOKED TROUT & CRACKED WHEAT SALAD
This delicious salad, a take on Middle Eastern tabbouli, doesn't require any cooking, the cracked wheat soaks while you flake the already cooked Trout and chop the remaining ingredients. It's perfect as a BBQ accompaniment or buffet dish and keeps well for a few days in the fridge.
Serves 6 as an entrée or light lunch
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1 cup burghul (cracked wheat)
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2 hot-smoked Trout |
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½ bunch watercress, picked and lightly chopped |
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1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
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1 tablespoon finely chopped dill
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½ red onion, finely diced
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8 green onions, finely chopped
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3 pieces preserved lemon, rind rinsed and finely diced
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1½ tablespoons lemon juice
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¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
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Salt flakes, to taste |
Stir 2 cups of boiling water through the burghul, cover and leave for 30 minutes or so.
Meanwhile, peel the skin back from one side of the trout, scrape away any dark flesh and carefully lift pieces of the meat away from the bone, break into small chunks and set aside. Turn over and repeat with remaining side (see notes).
Combine watercress, parsley, dill, onions and preserved lemon in a bowl. Tip burghul into a fine sieve, press well to remove excess moisture, then add to the bowl.
Whisk lemon juice, olive oil and salt together, pour over salad and toss thoroughly. Add Trout and toss gently to combine.
Notes: The dark meat along the centre of the Trout is fine to eat, but people often prefer the look of just the pinky-orange flesh.
Wine suggestion: Turn this dish in to a festive occasion by opening a bottle of Hollick Sparkling Merlot 2006. The earthy flavours in this wonderfully deep, rich, slightly sweet, sparkling red work a treat with the smokiness of the Trout. www.hollick.com
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| Photo by Franz Scheurer |
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GO INTO A DRAW TO WIN A BEEFEATER 4-BURNER DISCOVERY PLUS BBQ
We love talking to our customers, but as more and more people discover Sydney Seafood School we find that we're struggling to keep up with the phone calls .... so we've developed a quick, convenient and secure online booking system which means you can book from any computer at any time of the day or night, whenever it's convenient for you. It saves us time and resources too as we don't have as many phone calls to answer or return and your booking goes straight into our computer without us having to enter the data. A WIN-WIN situation.
So, to say thank you, every time you book online before 1 November 2010 you'll go into a draw to win a BeefEater BBQ, valued at $1099. Designed for storage, as well as serious cooking, the Discovery Plus features an inbuilt cabinet to store BBQ tools, cookbooks or even your next drink, as well as rust-free porcelain enamel-coated cast-iron cooktops, stainless steel and alloy roasting hood with glass viewing window, large removable warming rack, reliable Quartz Start ignition (no batteries), powder coated metal pedestal trolley with stainless steel shelves and vanity skirt and heavy-duty lockable castor wheels. Learn more at www.beefeaterbbq.com
So visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and book now.
Terms and Conditions: 1.Sydney Seafood School Online Booking Promotion entry is open to all Sydney Seafood School customers. 2. To participate in this promotion book online by midnight on Sunday 31 October 2010. 3. There is no entry fee involved in participating in this competition, but all participants must be 15 years of age or older. 4. To be eligible to win a BeefEater 4-burner Discovery BBQ valued at $1099, entrants must book a Sydney Seafood School cooking class online by midnight on Sunday 31 October 2010. 5. Prize will be drawn at Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009 at 11am 1 November 2010. The winner will be notified by email on the same day. 6. Promoter is Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009. Phn +61 2 9004 1100. ABN 24 064 254 306. 7. You must ensure that all care is taken when making the booking. A booking is not deemed to have been received unless an email confirming the booking has been sent to the customer. 8. Sydney Fish Market accepts no responsibility for any booking not received by Sydney Fish Market or delays in the delivery of bookings due to technical disruptions or for any reason. All online bookings are deemed to be received at the time of receipt NOT time of transmission by the entrant. 9. Sydney Fish Market reserves the right to keep all entry emails confidential. 10. Employees of Sydney Fish Market and their families are not eligible to enter. 11. The prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash. Authorised under NSW Permit No LTPS/10/04327.
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FAQ: ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Check the FAQ pages in the FISHline section of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and if you can't find the answer there, email your question to fishline@sydneyfishmarket.com.au.
Why do crustaceans turn red when they're cooked?
Prawns, Crabs, Rocklobsters, and other shellfish turn red when they're cooked because their shells contain a carotenoid pigment called astaxanthin. The best known carotenoid pigment is carotene, which gives carrots their bright orange colour. Astaxanthin's colour isn't obvious in live or raw shellfish because it's bound with a protein that usually creates a blue-green colour. Astaxanthin is heat-stable and the protein isn't, so when heat is applied the protein is destroyed, releasing the pigment and giving the typical red colour of cooked shellfish.
Lots of recipes ask for 'firm white-fleshed fish'. What fish should I use?
Ling, Blue-eye Trevalla, Coral Trout, Emperors and Mahi Mahi are just some fish with firm, white flesh. Firm, white-fleshed fish are a popular choice for many recipes as their flavour isn't as distinctive as pink or red-fleshed fish, like Salmon and Tuna, and their firm texture means they hold together well in all sorts of preparations. With so many species of fish in the ocean, many can be substituted for one another, which is good news for the cook. If a recipe calls for a particular species which is unavailable, or too expensive, on the day you're shopping, tell your fishmonger how you plan to cook it and ask them to suggest a suitable substitute.
How can I tell when a bivalve is cooked?
Bivalves (shellfish with a double hinged shell, such as Vongole, Mussels and Pipis) are among the quickest and easiest seafood to cook, as they tell you when they're ready... by opening. Before cooking them, ensure each shell is firmly closed, or closes when gently tapped (discard any that don't), then add them to a hot pan over a high heat, with or without a little oil, wine or other flavourings, and cover them for a minute or two, giving the pan a good shake occasionally. As soon as you hear them start to pop open, remove the lid and, one by one as they open, transfer them to a bowl. If a few stubborn ones remain, cover again for a minute or two. Any that still remain closed can be prised open over the sink and checked - if they smell good, they will be; if in doubt, discard them.
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| Raw (green) Blue Swimmer Crab |
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| Cooked Blue Swimmer Crab |
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CLASSIC DISH: SEAFOOD PASTA
"Spaghetti marinara" sounds so maritime we instantly think of pasta with seafood; traditionally however that is not the case. In Naples, the home of marinara sauce, "marinara" refers to the mariners (or sailors) for whom the sauce was made.
So it's literally "sailors' sauce" and is made very simply with tomato, garlic and fresh herbs (traditionally oregano or parsley). It was made by the sailor's wives for their husbands when they returned after many months at sea - and the last thing they probably wanted to eat was seafood.
Of course seafood sauces are made to accompany pasta all over the Italian coast, using whatever seafood is available. They are known by many different regional names such as Liguria's "spaghetti allo scoglio", literally "reef-style spaghetti" as the species used are those found along the rocky coastline; "alla pescatore" (fisherman-style) is another popular name. The more general Italian name for seafood sauce however is the rather poetic "ai frutti di mare", literally "with fruits of the sea". It's often made without tomatoes, and tends to contain shellfish, octopus or squid more often than finfish.
Pizza Marinara is one of the two classic pizza flavours that now have DOC (protected designation of origin) status within the EU; and again it doesn't contain seafood, just the same ingredients as the classic marinara sauce: tomato, oregano and garlic.
Learn more great Italian recipes with Lucio Galletto on 9 August & Giovanni Pilu on 30 August. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.
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| Photo by Franz Scheurer |
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RECIPE: LINGUINE AI FRUTTI DI MARE
Serves 6 as an entrée
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500g linguine |
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½ cup extra virgin olive oil
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1 red onion, finely diced
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2 cloves garlic, crushed
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Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
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500g Blue Mussels, scrubbed and debearded
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500g Vongole (see notes)
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½ cup dry white wine
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400g medium green Prawns, peeled, deveined and cut into bite-sized chunks
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400g Squid, cleaned and cut into strips
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¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley |
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Toasted Seasoned Breadcrumbs |
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1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil |
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½ cup fresh breadcrumbs (see notes) |
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1½ tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley |
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½ lemon, zest grated |
Make Toasted Seasoned Breadcrumbs: heat olive oil in a small frying pan, add breadcrumbs and stir over a medium heat for 3-5 minutes, until crisp and golden. Set aside to cool then stir through parsley and lemon zest.
Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add pasta, stir well and continue boiling, stirring occasionally, until it is al dente.
Meanwhile, heat half the olive oil in a frying pan, add onion, garlic, salt and pepper and cook over a medium heat until onion softens. Increase heat and add Mussels, Vongole and wine. Stir and cover for a minute or 2, until shells start to open. Remove shells to a bowl as soon as they open, discarding any that do not open. Pour cooking liquid into a bowl. When cool enough to handle, remove meat from most of the shells, leaving a few in the shell for garnish; add Vongole and Mussels to the bowl of cooking liquid.
Return pan to a medium heat, add remaining oil and, when hot, add Prawns and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute. Add Squid and cook, stirring, for a further 30 seconds. Return Mussels, Vongole
and cooking liquid to the pan. Cover and remove from heat until pasta is cooked.
Drain cooked pasta. Return frying pan to the heat, add pasta and parsley to the seafood and toss over a medium heat for a couple of minutes to mix well and until most of the liquid has been absorbed.
Serve sprinkled with toasted breadcrumbs.
Note: Vongole are usually sold 'purged' to remove sand and grit, if they haven't been purged, place them in a large bowl of cool water for several hours, or overnight, at room temperature (if you refrigerate them they'll close up and won't 'spit out' the sand). To make fresh breadcrumbs, pulse day-old bread in a food processor until finely crumbed. It's a great way to use up stale bread and you can keep them in the freezer to use whenever breadcrumbs are required.
Wine suggestion: This dish calls for a wine with bold flavours that's still subtle enough not to overshadow the seafood, and d'Arenberg's 'The Hermit Crab' 2008 is perfect. A blend of Viognier and Marsanne, it's tight yet lively, with balanced weight and acidity. Lovely stone fruit and citrus flavours marry with more exotic ginger undertones and it finishes long and dry. www.darenberg.com.au
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| Photo by Franz Scheurer |
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DIETMAR SAWYERE FROM AD LIB BISTRO & BEROWRA WATERS INN
Swiss-born Dietmar Sawyere began his cooking life working alongside his chef father on weekends. At 16 he left for London and a job at The Savoy Hotel, and cut his culinary teeth in the kitchens of big hotels, working for Hyatt, and later Regent, in New Zealand, Asia and Australia, where, as Executive Sous Chef at Regent of Sydney, he helped take Kables Restaurant to a 3-hat rating in the 1987 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide.
In 1993, ready for a place of his own, he opened Level Forty One on the top of Chifley Plaza, which he closed this year after 17 years. During this time he also ran the modern French Brasserie Cassis, also in Chifley Plaza; Five City Road in Auckland; and consulted to Singapore Airlines alongside Michelin-starred chefs George Blanc and Gordon Ramsay.
By 2007, not surprisingly, he was ready for a change of pace and so, with wife Nicole, restored and reopened the iconic Berowra Waters Inn, a restaurant he'd admired since dining there on his first trip to Sydney in 1985. A trip to the Inn is a magical experience; without road access, apart from the lucky few who arrive by seaplane or private boat, guests are met at the jetty by the restaurant's punt for the five-minute cruise up the Hawkesbury River. The Glenn Murcutt-designed, sandstone, wood and corrugated iron building blends perfectly into its bushland surrounds and floor to ceiling glass louvres ensure great views of the peaceful river for every table. The Mediterranean-inspired menu showcases local produce and guests select from 16 small dishes to create their own four to six-course degustation. Sawyere's light touch with seafood is obvious in his signature chilled vichyssoise with oscietra and salmon caviars and beignets of Sydney rock oysters. Having spent many years learning the rules, he's also happy to bend them with interesting combinations of flavours and textures in dishes such as slow-cooked ocean trout, mud crab and kalamata olive fried rice or steamed yabbies and peppered oxtail raviolo with smoked veloute. Of course, there's also beautifully cooked meat and clever vegetarian dishes to ensure everyone's happy.
Although life on the river is a lovely change, Sawyere's not one to sit still for long and in May this year, with Forty One's closure imminent, he opened the more casual Ad Lib Bistro in Pymble. A bright modern version of a classic Parisian neighbourhood bistro, with long banquettes, bentwood chairs and paper-over-cloth tables, it's a chance for Sawyere to return to the classics of his childhood. There's sugar-cured salmon with toasted brioche, steak tartare and French onion soup, and a simply delicious seafood platter for two. And in true bistro-style, Ad Lib is open continuously from 10am-10pm so guests can drop in for a glass of wine and a snack, or tuck into a hearty 3-course dinner.
Berowra Waters Inn:
Berowra Waters, 9456 1027
www.berowrawatersinn.com
Ad Lib Bistro:
1047 Pacific Hwy, Pymble, 9988 0120
www.adlibbistro.com
See Dietmar at Sydney Seafood School on 7 September.
Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.
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| Dietmar Sawyere |
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SNAPPER EN PAPILLOTE WITH SPAGHETTINI
Serves 6
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120g spaghettini
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2 teaspoons chilli oil
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Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
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100g shiitake, sliced
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60g rocket leaves
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6 x 120g baby snapper fillets, skin on
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20g enoki, trimmed to 4cm lengths
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1 lemon, juiced
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1 long red chilli, sliced |
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120g garlic butter (see notes) |
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6 lemon wedges |
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6 sprigs chervil |
Preheat oven to 220ºC.
Bring a pot of salted water to the boil, add spaghettini and boil until almost cooked but still slightly firm. Drain and toss with chilli oil, salt and pepper.
Cut 6 large, heart-shaped pieces of baking paper and place on the bench.
Divide spaghettini between the 6 pieces of paper, placing it on one half of the paper. Place shiitakes and rocket leaves on top of the pasta, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place a fillet of fish, skin side up, on top, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with enoki, chilli and a little lemon juice, then a slice of garlic butter.
Fold the other side of the paper over and, starting at the wide end, fold the edges of the parcel over to seal it tightly closed. Bake in oven for 10 minutes.
Serve in the unopened bag with a wedge of lemon and sprig of chervil on the side.
Notes: To make garlic butter, beat 2 cloves of crushed garlic into 120g salted butter, roll into a log and refrigerate until needed.
Wine suggestion: This recipe asks for something a little different, and Logan's 2009 Moscato answers the call. Dark gold with a copper tinge and aromas of passionfruit and pink grapefruit, it tingles on the tongue and surprises with lychee, red apple and lime flavours. www.loganwines.com.au
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| Berowra Waters Inn |
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COOKING STYLE: MARINATING
Originally a method of preserving food in a salty pickle (the word comes from the Latin 'marina', meaning 'of the sea'), marinating is now primarily used to add flavour, though it can also tenderise and add moisture.
SEAFOOD CAN BE:
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marinated raw and then cooked (this is most common);
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steeped in a high-acid marinade for a relatively long time, so that the acid denatures the protein in a similar way to heat, then eaten without further cooking;
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cooked first, then steeped in a marinade for added flavour, and eaten cold. |
The ingredients of a marinade are limited only by your imagination, but they typically include acid, oil and flavourings. Some popular marinade ingredients are:
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acid: wine, brandy, vinegar, lemon or lime juice, verjuice, yoghurt;
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oil: olive oil, grapeseed oil, ricebran oil or other neutral vegetable oil;
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flavourings: herbs (bay leaves, dill, parsley, oregano, thyme), spices (chilli, pepper, star anise, cumin), onion and garlic. |
Marinated seafood eaten without further cooking is popular in Central and South America (see ceviche recipe click here). A similar dish, often with the addition of coconut cream, is known by various names throughout the Pacific Islands, including Hawaiian poke, Fijian kokoda and Tahitian poisson cru. Filipino kinilaw is raw fish marinated briefly in vinegar or lime juice, so that it keeps some translucence, then mixed with onion, garlic and ginger and sometimes chilli, sour fruit such as green mango, and/or coconut milk.
Marinating cooked fish is an ancient technique dating back to Roman times. Across Europe, often small, oily fish are flour-coated, fried, then steeped in a hot, flavoured vinegar, left for several days (or longer) and typically eaten cold as an entrée or snack. In Spain, Portugal and southern France it's called escabeche, in Venice caramelised onions add sweetness to sardines en soar, and versions also exist in Turkey, Eastern Europe and North Africa.
TIPS FOR MARINATING SEAFOOD:
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use a non-reactive container such as glass, porcelain, glazed or enamelled dishes
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only marinate seafood for about 20 minutes unless you want the acid to start to 'cook' the fish |
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if seafood isn't completely immersed in the marinade, turn it occasionally to ensure even flavouring |
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drain seafood well before cooking, if pan-frying or barbecuing, pat dry to ensure it browns well |
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to avoid cross-contamination, don't add raw marinade back onto cooked seafood
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boil leftover marinade to make a sauce for cooked seafood |
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firmer seafood, such as octopus, squid and abalone, can be braised in their marinade |
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if serving marinated seafood without any further cooking (as in ceviche) always use sashimi-grade seafood |
SEE THE FOLLOWING DELICIOUS MARINADE RECIPES ON OUR WEBSITE:
Learn some delicious seafood marinades at our evening Barbecuing classes on 26 August and 15 October. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.
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| Barbecued Sesame Lime Marinated Bugs |
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RECIPE: CEVICHE
Serves 8 as an entrée
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600g sashimi-grade snapper fillets, pin-boned
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½ cup strained lime juice
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1 medium-sized red chilli, finely chopped
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½ yellow capsicum, seeded, finely diced
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1 red onion, finely diced
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6 green onions, sliced |
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2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander
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2 firm ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced
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1 ripe avocado, diced
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½ iceberg lettuce, shredded
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Salt flakes, to taste |
Discard any dark flesh from the fish and cut into a large dice.
Marinate fish, refrigerated, in lime juice for 8 hours, stirring every couple of hours to ensure all pieces spend time submerged in the juice.
Drain fish and combine with chilli, capsicum, onions, coriander, tomato, and avocado and chill for 30 minutes.
Place lettuce in the bottom of a serving bowl or martini glass, top with ceviche, sprinkle with salt and serve.
Wine Suggestion: This dish needs a fragrant, spicy, yet dry white wine, and Verdun Park Wines 'Lyla' Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from the Adelaide Hills delivers the goods. Steely, yet spicy, it stands up to the acid in the ceviche. www.verdunparkwines.com.au
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Photo by Franz Scheurer
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BOOK REVIEW
THE REAL FOOD COMPANION
by Matthew Evans
We followed his weekly eating adventures as The Sydney Morning Herald's leading restaurant critic and more recently watched him grapple with his critters as SBS's Gourmet Farmer, but chef and food writer Matthew Evans is most himself in his latest book. This hefty tome, written in Evans chatty irreverent style, is based on the philosophy of knowing the source of our food, partly because it's good for the environment and healthy for us, but mostly because it just tastes good. He admits there are times when we're too tired, broke or busy not to take short cuts, but reasons that if we 'do the right thing most of the time' then the producers, provedores, cooks and fishers who provide great food may thrive ... and the more there are of them, the easier it is for us to access that food. Each chapter opens with the story of one such Australian producer who Evans has met in his travels. There's also a wealth of general information for novice cook and gourmet alike, whether it's how to choose and store all sorts of vegetables or the different gluten contents (and uses) of various types of flour. The proof of the pudding is in the eating however, and Evans simple recipes deliver great flavour, from homemade yoghurt and ricotta to raspberry sour milk cake in the dairy chapter; taxi driver's lamb curry to hearty Irish stew in the meat chapter; and creamy smoked Trout & Blue-eye Trevalla pie with breadcrumb crust or sour yellow curry of Prawns in the seafood chapter. Whether you're after an interesting read, a reference for all sorts of need-to-know food info, or just delicious recipes ... The Real Food Companion delivers the goods.
RRP $89.95 (Murdoch)
ISBN 9781741962703
Matthew will present his favourite seafood recipes from his new book on 4 August. Visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call 9004 1111 to book.
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RECIPE: BABY OCTOPUS BRAISED IN RED WINE
Baby Octopus are very reasonably priced, and a good fishmonger will clean them for you. To clean them yourself, slit between the head and legs and pull out anything that looks unappetising. I reckon there are only two cooking times for Octopus: 40 seconds or 40 minutes, and, while I love char-grilled Octopus, this slow-cooked version is perfect for winter.
Serves 4 as an entrée
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1 tablespoon olive oil
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1 small onion, grated
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1 clove garlic, crushed
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500g baby Octopus, cleaned
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250ml red wine
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200g canned Italian tomatoes, pureed roughly
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Freshly ground black pepper, to taste |
Heat the oil in a small saucepan and fry the onion and garlic for 5-10 minutes, until they start to colour. Add the Octopus and continue frying for about 3 minutes, taking care not to darken the onion mix too much. Stir in the wine and boil rapidly for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and lots of pepper, reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 40-45 minutes until tender. Transfer to a shallow frying pan and boil to reduce the sauce to a thickish consistency, then serve with char-grilled bread drizzled with olive oil.
Wine Suggestion: This is one of those rare seafood dishes where a red wine matches perfectly. Cockfigher's Ghost Premium Reserve Tasmanian Pinot Noir 2007 has a lot of earthy flavours to augment the deep, slow-cooked flavour of the Octopus perfectly - better still if you also use it to braise the Octopus in. www.poolesrock.com.au
Recipe from The Real Food Companion.
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Photo by Alan Benson
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TO CONTACT SYDNEY FISH MARKET:
(ABN 24 064 254 306)
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Reception |
+61 2 9004 1100 |
FISHline |
+61 2 9004 1122 |
Sydney Seafood School |
+61 2 9004 1111 |
EMAIL
reception@sydneyfishmarket.com.au
WRITE
Locked Bag 247, Pyrmont NSW 2009 Australia
VISIT
Cnr Bank St and Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Pyrmont
WEBSITE
www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au
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Sydney Fish Market retailers are open every day except Christmas Day
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